They say three’s a crowd, yet in the kitchen I find three or four well-matched ingredients are just the right number to make a dish sing. Crispy duck, savoury pumpkin, sour redcurrants and the sweetness of birch (or maple) make up one of my favourite foursomes. Ideally, I would use birch syrup produced in the forests of Estonia for this dish, but if you don’t happen to have a bottle of rare birch syrup on hand, then simply use some good-quality maple syrup instead.

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