The edge of a pool surrounded by palm trees and crystel clear water at Sunset Town Phu Quoc, Vietnam

They say time flies when you’re having fun, so the past 18 years must have been an absolute whirlwind. As I step off the plane into the balmy evening air of Phu Quoc International Airport, it hits me. It has been nearly two decades since my feet last touched Vietnamese soil.

Vietnam holds a special place in my heart. It was the first country I visited overseas as a wide-eyed 24-year-old, and it sparked the love of travel that has taken me to more than 30 countries since.

A lot has changed in that time. My husband was diagnosed with coeliac disease, and I’ve become a full-time gluten-free traveller by association. This is our first time returning to Vietnam since his diagnosis, and we feel a little nervous about how his dietary needs might shape our experience.

Now, instead of worrying about crossing the road in a sea of scooters, we are concerned about soy sauce. Or more specifically, the hidden gluten that lurks in marinades, broths and condiments.

Thankfully, our travel style has evolved too. We’ve swapped the backpacks for suitcases and the guesthouses for five-star resorts. And while that shift would make things easier almost anywhere, it definitely gives us more confidence when it comes to navigating gluten-free Phu Quoc.

First stop: Novotel Phu Quoc Resort

We check into the Novotel Phu Quoc Resort on the island’s southwest coast, just ten minutes from the airport but a world away from the arrival hall. The beach here stretches wide and golden, the palms lean gently towards the sea, and the mood is instantly relaxed.

Our home for the next few days is one of the Deluxe Bungalows with a Private Pool, tucked away in the resort’s quieter garden zone. It’s spacious, simple and wonderfully private. Inside, there’s room for our five-year-old to scatter his belongings without us tripping over them. Outside, an eight-metre pool winds past our terrace, perfect for early swims and afternoon cooldowns when the tropical heat peaks.

The Novotel strikes that easy balance between family-friendly and grown-up comfort. There’s a kids’ splash zone near the main pool, but you’ll also find quiet corners shaded by frangipanis where parents sip coffee in peace. Staff are warm and unhurried. Nothing feels too polished or too rigid. It’s the kind of place where you can kick off your sandals, order a coconut and just… exhale.

It’s late when we arrive and we don’t feel like venturing far, so we open the room service menu and prepare for the usual gluten-free struggle. But to our surprise, several items are clearly marked as gluten free. We order a Vietnamese fish soup and fresh spring rolls. Both are delicious, and the spring rolls might be the best I have ever had.

Beach Side Bliss at the Novotel Phu Quoc Resort.

Gluten-Free Breakfast Without Stress

Breakfast at Novotel Phu Quoc is a pleasant surprise. Tucked beside the main buffet, a small but thoughtful gluten-free station offers clearly labelled options, including gluten-free bread. It isn’t flashy, but it shows care, which makes all the difference when you’re travelling with coeliac disease.

The staff are friendly and informed, happy to point out additional safe choices without any confusion or hesitation. My husband puts together a plate of made-to-order eggs, crisp salad, fresh tropical fruit and a warm bowl of Vietnamese congee. It’s the kind of breakfast that sets the tone for a good day. We leave feeling looked after, not left out.

Postcard-Perfect Paradise

Once our five-year-old has fully acquainted himself with both of the resort’s pools, we use the Grab app to book a driver to Sao Beach. My pre-trip research promises white sand, turquoise water and swaying coconut palms, and it absolutely delivers. The beach is postcard-perfect, with soft sand underfoot and calm, clear water ideal for swimming with kids. We pay to hire beach chairs and an umbrella and set up for the morning.

White Sand, Clear Waters. A Perfect Day at Sao Beach

The only downside is the food. There are limited dining options when we visit. We settle in at Sao Beach Bar, but the menu we’re handed doesn’t offer anything suitable for a gluten-free diet. Thankfully we’re still full from breakfast. There may be a more extensive menu inside the restaurant rather than at the beach kiosk, but if you’re coeliac or travelling with dietary restrictions, I recommend bringing gluten-free snacks and avoiding the beach around mealtimes.

A Sunset Experience Beyond Expectations

That evening, our Grab driver returns to take us to Sunset Town. I’m expecting something gaudy, a tourist trap dressed up with lights and loud music, but I’m wrong.

Perched on the island’s southwestern tip, Sunset Town is designed to impress. Terracotta roofs and pastel facades lean into European fantasy, with cobbled streets, archways and an almost surreal sense of scale. There’s something strangely endearing about it.

We settle into a table at Sun Bavaria GastroPub, which has an open-air terrace overlooking the ocean. The menu is long and eclectic. While nothing is marked gluten free, there are workable options, and the staff are helpful and willing to check ingredients. We order carefully and sip cocktails as the music begins.

It starts with a DJ spinning ambient pop, easing into the evening. Then, as the sky deepens to a burnished gold, a violinist in white linen joins him on a platform built out over the water. Together they move through a series of pop covers — moody, atmospheric renditions that echo off the stone and sea.

We’re told to expect fireworks at sunset, but the timing has changed, and we are far too early. Still, no one minds. As twilight falls, dancers emerge in flowing costumes, followed by fire twirlers who light up the promenade. It’s strange and beautiful and feels entirely removed from the world we left behind just a few days ago.

Phu Quoc’s Sunset Town

Supermarket Delights

One of my favourite things to do when travelling is exploring local supermarkets. There’s something fascinating about seeing what lines the shelves, especially when you need to eat gluten-free. I’m always hoping to find something new, something I wouldn’t come across at home.

As we walk back to meet our driver, I spot KingKong Mart, an enormous, brightly lit supermarket with an entrance that’s impossible to miss. I head straight in. Within minutes I’ve filled a basket with tapioca crackers, fruit jellies, dried fruit and nuts, and quinoa chips.

Theme Park Dreams, Minus the Crowds

A trip to Phu Quoc doesn’t feel complete without a visit to VinWonders, the island’s answer to Disneyland. It sits on the northern coast, about an hour’s drive from our hotel. We book a car using the Grab app and head out early to make the most of the day.

The journey takes us past the old airport, now disused, its wide, empty runway stretching alongside a scattering of construction sites and silent, half-finished resorts. Our driver points out the area and explains that the government plans to transform it into a major commercial precinct. I nod politely, though I can’t help but wonder how long that might take. He smiles and assures me it will be ready in time for APEC Economic Leaders’ Week in 2027.

VinWonders is sprawling and surreal, a full-scale theme park built on fantasy, fairytales and photo ops. The scale is impressive, but what really takes us by surprise is the emptiness. Wide, sweeping boulevards stretch out in front of us with barely another person in sight. There are no queues, no crowds, no background hum of excited voices. It feels more like walking through a film set after everyone’s gone home. We’re here during shoulder season (late May), and if crowds aren’t your thing, this time is ideal.

By mid-morning, the heat presses in. It clings to our backs  and leaves us searching for shade. We take refuge inside the aquarium, housed inside a giant turtle. It’s cool, quiet and unexpectedly mesmerising. We wander through glass tunnels where stingrays glide overhead like shadows, and schools of fish shimmer through shifting light. For a moment, we forget the heat altogether.

Family Fun, the VinWonders Way

Refreshed, we head to Fantasy World, the section aimed at younger children. All is well until I lead the family, quite literally, down the rabbit hole. I adored Disney’s Alice in Wonderland as a child, could recite entire scenes from memory, and I think this will be a charming way to share that love with my son. I am wrong.

The lights dim, the music swells, and we’re launched into something more haunting than whimsical. Distorted visuals, disorienting sounds, and an attraction that feels far longer than it is. My son clutches my arm and whispers that he wants to leave. We make it through, but no one asks what ride we should do next.

With storm clouds gathering, we take shelter in a nearby restaurant with the curious name of Vietnamese Dishes. The menu offers no gluten-free guidance, but the staff are helpful and willing to check ingredients. Using Google Translate, we manage to order a large sweet and sour soup with steamed rice.

After lunch, the sky clears just enough to tempt us into the water park. We take on the waterslides, splash each other in the toddler area and cool off in the wave pools. Our favourite spot is Oahu Waves, a sandy beach with floating tubes that lets us drift without direction. My son floats beside me, kicking gently, eyes half-closed under the sun. This is the moment that will stay with us.

Vin Wonders’ Phu Quoc Water Park is the Ideal Spot to Beat the Heat

Stepping Into Stillness at the Pullman

From VinWonders we transfer to our next hotel and it really feels like stepping into a different world. We check in at the Pullman Phu Quoc Beach Resort and are greeted with chilled towels, a cold drink and the kind of warm, professional welcome that instantly slows the pace of the day.

Our room at the Pullman sits in the northwestern corner of the resort, part of a low-slung, cabana-style building that feels tucked away from the main action. Just four guest rooms share the space, each with a private terrace that opens directly onto a wraparound pool. We slide open the glass doors and step onto our deck, where two sunloungers overlook still water edged with palms. It’s quiet, green and impossibly relaxing.

It’s the kind of setup that makes you slow down without even meaning to. You unpack, you exhale, and suddenly there’s nowhere else you’d rather be.

A Gluten-Free Breakfast Worth Waking Up For

We arrive at the Pullman with grand plans to explore more of the island, but within hours we find ourselves fully in resort mode. There is a rhythm here that’s hard to resist. Mornings begin with a swim in our semi-private pool, followed by a slow, generous breakfast at the buffet. It is one of the best I’ve experienced, not just for the variety, but for the thought that has gone into every detail.

Gluten-free travellers are well looked after. The team greet us each morning with oven-warmed, individually wrapped gluten-free bread, and options are clearly labelled throughout the buffet. Fresh fruit, hash browns, congee, eggs cooked to order, roast meat and even deep-fried spring rolls are all available and marked as gluten-free. If there are questions, staff know the answers or quickly find someone who does.

When It Comes to Gluten-Free Phu Quoc, the Pullman Has Your Covered. The Team Takes Food Allergies & Cross-Contamination Seriously. Gluten-Free Bread is stored separately and many food items at the breakfast buffet are naturally gluten-free.

After breakfast, we walk along the beach to let it all settle. The sand is warm underfoot, the water calm and clear. By mid-morning, we’re back in swimmers, drifting between the toddler splash zone and the expansive free-form pool at the heart of the resort. Lined with palm trees and shaded loungers, it’s the kind of space designed for families and couples to coexist with ease.

The resort stretches over seven hectares, most of it devoted to greenery and open space. At the edge is a private stretch of Long Beach, where guests share the shoreline with the occasional local fisherman. In the late afternoon, the sea and sky begin to merge, and the whole place takes on a quiet kind of magic.

For those who want to do more than swim and snooze, there is a daily schedule of activities from tai chi and yoga to aqua aerobics and paddleboarding. Cooking classes, traditional crafts and cultural demonstrations are also on offer, and each day’s program is updated on the lobby’s activities board. You can join in or simply stretch out by the pool with a book and an iced coffee and let the hours drift by.

Dining across the resort continues to impress. At Salt & Pepper, we enjoy grilled barracuda with rice paper and fresh herbs. At Mad Cow Wine & Grill, the steak is cooked perfectly and served with lobster. At every venue, staff are calm and confident when it comes to allergies. They check ingredients, make suggestions and adjust dishes without hesitation. It is thoughtful, polished hospitality that makes you feel completely at ease.

You Won’t Want To Miss Sunset at the Beach House Restaurant and Bar at the Pullman Phu Quoc Beach Resort.

We had hoped for sunshine, good food and a quiet place to relax. What we find at the Pullman is something better. It is comfort without complication, luxury without stiffness, and food that just happens to be safe for coeliacs without ever feeling like a compromise.

Facts At A Glance

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